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A dryad in Prince Caspian (illustration by Pauline Baynes) |
For a long time I had an idea of what the perfect wood should look like. It came from Narnia and Enid Blyton illustrations. Trees would be large and evenly spaced, and there would be plenty of light, and soft natural lawns full of moss and moonlight. There would probably be magical beings or deities hidden in cracks or roots. Dryads,
hamadryads, brownies, and fairies. If only the right person would come along, someone with sensitivity and a deep appreciation for the natural world, they would show themselves. That person was me, of course.
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| The fair folk awake in Prince Caspian (illustration by Pauline Baynes) |
I didn't know whether or not the scraps that counted for woodland around the torn West Suffolk countryside could ever be home to anything so wonderful, but I did try to find them. But what were 'they'? As a child they were, of course, literal nature spirits. The trees would house dryads, and the rivers naiads. As I got older, they became metaphors for something a little more dry: good ecological habitat. These wondrous, ephemeral creatures could only exist in beautiful places. That meant lush green lawns, old gnarled veteran trees, orchards and meadows. These things don't exist much in West Suffolk - or if they do, they are isolated, like the tree on its own in my story. And so I wandered, hoping to discover something special, some secret green place, without much luck. I knew, vaguely, that things had been different. That, before the agricultural intensities of the 1940s and 50s, there had been huge, thick hedges, and many more meadows, and that perhaps these creatures were in hiding from the machinery and pesticides of the modern farm environment. That's not far from the truth, of course. The things that flit and fly in agricultural countryside have crashed since most monitoring began in the 1970s due to catastrophic habitat loss, pesticides, and increasing fragmentation of relic populations.
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Wheat, a copse, and the hard baked earth (Image copyright Bob Jones, Geograph) |
Most of the woodlands, like the one pictured left, are small game coverts a few hectares in size at most, only there to keep pheasants and partridges for shooting. Many of them used to be older but were grubbed up sometime in the early twentieth century and replanted with conifers and ash in straight, neat rows to provide a ready supply of timber. Their ground flora gives their away their older origins: carpets of dog's mercury, and ancient woodland indicator, appear in spring, and there are incongruous dips and ditches or relic pollards marking what used to be the boundaries. A lot of these fragmented scraps of woodland are all but empty, but stay long enough and you might be rewarded.
Standing at the mouth of the copse, waiting and watching. A long August day. Suddenly, from the base of one of the larger ash trees there is a jerky wren-like movement, and something spirals around and up the tree. I only glimpse it; perhaps, though I'm still, it can sense me, for it climbs the far side of the tree, out of my sight. What is it? It looked almost humanoid, like some hairy sprite.
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Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla. (Image copyright Momo) |
There are wonderful things out here after all. They just manage to hide themselves well. The treecreeper I saw at the bottom of an ash tree is one. Another time, sitting in a copse near a green runway, a drop of water caught on the leaf of a nettle sparkled. I watched it for half an hour or more, thinking of nothing, until the sun had moved far enough behind the trees and it blinked out.
But these woods are not perfect. They have lost a great deal of biodiversity, and they are no longer being managed for anything other than game. I still spend a good deal of time exploring them, small as they are, and most could do with thinning out. They are choked with bramble and ivy. Little or no light reaches the woodland floor, so there aren't many insects. Aside from the ubiquitous great tits, blackbirds, wood pigeons, and rooks, there's almost no bird life. When you spend enough time in wildlife-rich places, you get a feel for what makes the habitat special, and for woodlands it's a decent age and habitat structure: an even mix of young- and old-growth; shrubs and scrub; dead wood left in-situ; a rich ground flora. In contrast, the copses of West Suffolk often contain nothing but similar-aged trees, with little or no natural regeneration. They are moribund.
Two hundred years ago, many of them wood have been like the nearby
Bradfield Woods, which is a working ancient woodland to this day, and one of the best examples of sustainable woodland management in the country. Areas of the wood are regularly coppiced to bring light to the floor, where anemones and foxgloves abound. There are enormous ash stools which are thought to be the oldest living things in Suffolk. The Wildlife Trust, which runs the wood, sells poles, stakes, fencing, and firewood: a small selection, given that woods would have provided much more at one time: baskets, tools, medicinal herbs, a home for pigs, and most of the means for building a home.
Ragged and poor as they are, however, these places formed my early ideas of what woods were, and I still find myself hopeful of finding some treasure - an
oxlip, perhaps a
houndstongue, maybe even another treecreeper - when I jump the ditch to explore one.